Colorado's Cozy, Rustic Mountain Lodge Is A Year-Round Backcountry Explorer's Dream

Why sleep in a hut when you can sleep in a house? That's the idea behind Colorado's Red Mountain Alpine Lodge. Located in the San Juan Mountains about 12 miles south of Ouray, Red Mountain Alpine Lodge feels secluded, but it's right off Colorado Highway 550 (one of the most dangerous road trips in America). The renowned thoroughfare winds through Red Mountain Pass —  an acclaimed backcountry hut trip destination — at an elevation of more than 11,000 feet. Backcountry trekking is supposed to be rustic (indoor plumbing is considered a perk), and Colorado is home to one of the largest backcountry hut networks in the United States, but there's something to be said for braving the elements by day and curling up in comfort at night. That's where Red Mountain Alpine Lodge stands out from the crowd.

Owned and operated by Nate Disser and Mark Iuppenlatz, the 2,500-square-foot timber A-frame lodge is luxurious by even the most discerning standards. That was the plan. Disser and Iuppenlatz are also the co-owners of San Juan Mountain Guides in Ouray, Colorado (a town that will make you feel like you're in the Swiss Alps), a back-country adventure business they had been running together for several years when they hit on the idea of building Red Mountain Alpine Lodge. "We get a lot of guests for hut trips [through SJMG] and there are some huts up on Red Mountain Pass, but they're substantially smaller, feature a lot fewer amenities and book out very early — like a year in advance for choice weekends," Disser told FREESKIER in 2019. "So Mark and I put our heads together and thought it would be a great idea to combine the guiding service with a lodge concept, so that we can really feature our guides during those times and do something that is really unique up here."

To be clear, guests staying at Red Mountain Alpine Lodge are not obligated to book excursions through San Juan Mountain Guides, and vice versa, but if your idea of a wilderness adventure includes backcountry exploring by day and relaxing in rustic-yet-elegant digs with all the comforts of home at night, it's a worthy consideration — especially when choosing comfort doesn't compromise adventure. In fact, it's just the opposite. Passing through the massive steel front door is like transporting through a magic portal. You know you're a stone's throw from a major thoroughfare and just a short drive from civilization, but all that melts into the background as you focus on floor-to-ceiling windows revealing a 360-degree view of the San Juan Mountains. One of the most challenging landscapes in North America, the 12,000-square-mile range comprises the southern expanse of the Colorado Rockies and is home to 14 of Colorado's 58 14ers, that is, peaks that reach 14,000 feet or more. Novice trekkers may want to check out a guide to the five easiest Colorado mountain peaks, including Handies Peak in the San Juan Mountains, before hitting the trail.

In a region known for volatile winter conditions — a risk amplified by high elevation and a weak snowpack prone to snowslides — skiable terrain can morph from tranquil to treacherous with little to no warning. With ski-in, ski-out access to some of the region's premier ski trails, including north-facing tree runs, high-alpine bowls, and rock-notch couloirs — Red Mountain Alpine Lodge is situated so guests can seamlessly adjust their plans to accommodate changing conditions. "I think that's what sets this range apart," Nate Disser told FREESKIER. "It runs the gamut for beginner, intermediate and advanced-type skiers and then all different types of skiing that those people find enjoyable ... Ninety-nine times out of 100 we can go out in any type of hazard condition and deliver a great experience."

The A-frame Douglas Fir timber lodge with exposed posts and beams was built using 19th-century tools and techniques. It sleeps up to 18 people. There are three private rooms located on the first floor. Furnishings include either a queen- or king-sized bed in addition to a bunk set-up. A second-floor loft contains an additional 12 single beds. There are three hot-water showers and four vanities. An unexpected nicety? Radiant floor heating. And we haven't even touched on the food. Unlike run-of-the-mill hut trips that require long treks hauling enough food for the duration of a stay, bookings at Red Mountain Alpine Lodge come with chef-prepared meals including full breakfast and dinner, trail lunches packed to go, and an aprés-ski snack. Imagine tucking into an afternoon pick-me-up of homemade vegetable barley soup and fresh baked bread. There's a full wine cellar at your disposal, and guests can request beer by the keg. There's also an on-site tavern offering on-tap beers, wine, and cocktails.

While the lodge sleeps up to 18, guests can either book individual accommodations or reserve the entire lodge, which makes the public space set-up especially important. The kitchen is built for a large group of friends traveling together — or smaller groups who will likely become lifelong friends after sharing their adventures. There's a marble center island in the kitchen along with an adjacent farm table, so the set up is perfect for group games. Guests seeking a bit of post-ski solitude can hole up in the reading nook warmed by a wood-burning fireplace. We've been focusing on winter adventure, but Red Mountain Alpine Lodge is open year-round. Hikers may want to consider an autumn stay to take in the magnificent foliage season, and it's hard to beat warm-weather access to the region's natural hot springs and waterfalls.