Central Oregon's Popular Ghost Town Is An Alluring Gem With Festivals And Historic Charm

Ghost towns are places often steeped in mystery. Questions circulate in the minds of those who come across the remains of a once-booming town. What caused its abandonment? What stories do the old, creaky floorboards of now derelict buildings hold? While there are many of these abandoned towns dotted throughout the United States, the bones of this once-popular Central Oregon town conjures ghosts — both real and imagined. Located about two and a half hours southeast of Portland sits a town that was once the Wool Capital of the World. Shaniko, formerly known as Cross Hallow, was once the fifth-largest city in Wasco County.

Shaniko has experienced its fair share of rises and falls. The town began its formation in the late 1800s but became known as Shaniko in 1900. While most ghost towns are connected to the gold rush, Shaniko's claim to fame was its production of wool. In 1905 alone, the town made around $5 million in wool profits. It was also a major railroad stop that provided access to wool and wheat producers within the region. However, when a new rail line was built in 1911 that bypassed the town completely, the town's population began to take a dive. The town saw a brief point of revitalization in the 1920s and '30s when it played host to workers who were constructing Highway 97, but it became a ghost town once more until 1950 when a pipeline was installed. Once all construction ended, the town became more or less a permanent ghost town, with about 30 people still calling Shaniko their home today. 

Although most of the town residents have moved on to greener pastures, many now historical buildings remain. Shaniko Row is home to most of the town's main attractions. Two roads meet at the town centerpiece, the Shaniko Hotel. The hotel reopened to the public in 2023 after many years of closure and is run by the South Wasco Fire and Rescue. The hotel is said to house ghosts of its own — like Nettie, a woman who took her own life in one of the rooms, and Amelia, a 4-year-old girl whose "toy ball mysteriously moves up and down the hallways." At the time of writing, the cost of a night with the phantoms depends on the time of year and which room you choose, however, it seems to range from $95 to $225. 

Other buildings that seem to have stopped in time are an old jail, a school, a chapel,a post office, an ice cream shop, a bank, and a water tower. Visitors can also explore the Shaniko Sage Museum, where they can find lots of local artifacts from former residents, including maps and photos. Outside the museum is perhaps one of the town's most interesting (and a little spooky) artifacts: a decrepit piano that's so old, the inner mechanisms can be fully seen. Shaniko sees most of its visitors in the summer when most of its businesses are open. The town also hosts a couple of events throughout the year, such as Shaniko Days, a festival held at the beginning of August complete with gun fights, live music, art, vendors, and parades. It also hosts a free bluegrass festival at the end of May, where visitors can come to enjoy more music, food, and camping at one of the free dry camping spots throughout town (or the Shaniko RV Park).

Although the Shaniko Hotel has Starlink internet, the rest of the area is known to have spotty cell service, so it's best to download offline directions. There are a few different ways to get to Shaniko, with the closest airport being Portland International Airport (PDX). From Portland, visitors can access the town by taking the I-84 East to Highway 197 South. After about 40 miles on 197-S, turn left onto Bakeoven Road to continue to Highway 97. Take a left onto Highway 97 North and continue until you reach Shaniko. This route will take you through the beautiful Columbia Gorge and past Hood River. The other option is to take Highway 26 East to Highway 216 East. Stay on Highway 216 until Highway 197 South, and take this until Bakeoven Road until you reach Highway 97. Taking this route will take you through the Cascade Mountains, past Mount Hood.

Considering that Shaniko is small, if you are not there for one of the festivals, you might want to explore some other things to do nearby. If you have the chance while driving along Highway 97, check out the Mima Mounds. These strange, small hills mysteriously cropped up in the area and extend over 445 acres. There are many theories as to their formation, but no one knows the real reason. Come explore the area, hike along the 1.5-mile loop trail, and witness the beauty of Mount Rainier in the distance. White River Falls State Park is another great spot to visit — located less than an hour from Shaniko. Spend the day hiking the trail (which is less than a mile and takes hikers to a historic hydroelectric power plant), picnicking, and taking in the beauty of the many waterfalls.