Spain's Underrated Wine Region That Stands Out For Its Old Vines And Unique Flavor

When it comes to European fine wine, Spain tends to get a little left in the shadow of France, Italy, and even Germany. You'd think that some of the 100 million or so tourists who visit the country each year might have cottoned on to the fact that Spanish vineyards make a decent drop, and it certainly isn't down to lack of product. Indeed, Spain is home to the largest area of land designated to vineyards in the world and is the planet's second-largest exporter. The latter point may be part of the issue, however, as the average price of Spanish wine is lower than that of its neighbors, which can drive down quality. But there is far more to Spanish wine than a bargain bottle from your local supermarket, and the Priorat region is one of the country's most underrated destinations to sample some of the good stuff.

Wine is produced in just about every part of Spain, with over 4,000 wineries growing more than 200 varieties of grapes. It's a big country, and the diverse climate and soil make a difference to both the type of grape grown and the fruit's terroir, a tradition that sometimes shocks travelers in neighboring France. Grapes that thrive in hot and arid Andalusia in Southern Spain are better suited to full-bodied fortified wines and sherries, while the cooler northwest produces light and crisp white wines. Situated inland from the Mediterranean coast, let's take a look at what makes the wines of Priorat so distinctive.

Located in the highlands of Tarragona, the Priorat region is a great day trip from Barcelona, a few hours' drive away. It takes its name from a 12th-century monastery supposedly built thanks to a shepherd's celestial vision –– thus it was named Priorato de Scala Dei, or the priory of the stairway of God. The region's vineyards grow side-by-side with olive trees, and the steep and rocky landscape is notoriously laborious for winegrowers. Thankfully, their efforts are rewarded with fruit that has received international recognition for the quality of the wine it produces. 

Priorat is great for lovers of red wine –– around 95% of grapes grown here are devoted to it, with the two main local varieties being old-vine Garnacha and Cariñena, celebrated for their notes of licorice, black cherry, and chocolate. Part of what makes the flavor so unique is the terroir, or sense of place, that is derived from the environment and microclimate in which the fruit grows. Here, the soil in the terraced vineyards is termed "llicorella" due to its special mineral qualities and foliated layers, which provide a haven for moisture-seeking vine roots in an area that can become very dry. Traditionally, these challenging conditions result in low yields and high prices, the latter a result of wine experts recognizing Priorat for its status as one of the greatest Spanish regions for red wine.

There are numerous companies offering tours and wine tasting packages in the Priorat wine region, but what if you want to explore under your own steam? Located within the Tarragona province, the area offers an outstanding blend of natural splendor, historic sites, gorgeous mountain towns, and, of course, quite a few vineyards and wineries. Perhaps the best place to start is Falset, Priorat's capital. Basking in a picturesque valley surrounded by peaks, the quaint village has a fascinating museum housed in the old castle. It's a great place to get the low-down on the region's history and wine-making heritage. Elsewhere, Vilafranca del Penedès is known as the "town of wine" for good reason, a cultural hub surrounded by several superb wineries. 

While you're in the area, be sure to check out Siurana for some spectacular views. The tiny hamlet with only a handful of residents was once a 12th-century stronghold, built on top of a vertiginous cliff above the river. Also, from a lofty vantage point, you can see where it all began at the monastery and winery of Scala Dei, the sacred site that gave the region its name. While modern techniques are now used, the wine produced here is still aged in the 17th-century cellars used by the monks. All these places of interest are located within a short distance of each other, which makes for a wonderful wine-tasting trip to escape the crowds in Barcelona.