The Secluded Caribbean Island Where Wild Horses Roam On Beaches And The Water Glows

Looking at a map, it's hard to believe Vieques Island has become so well known. This sliver of land off the east coast of Puerto Rico is only 22 miles long and 4 miles wide. The island isn't easy to get to either. From San Juan, it's two-and-a-half hours by car and ferry, and only smaller cruise ships stop here. If you're not afraid of small aircraft, Cape Air will fly you here from Luis Muñoz Marín International Airport in about 40 minutes. And if you're coming here by boat, you can easily take the 30-minute ferry from Ceiba on the mainland.

For 60 years, much of the island was used by the U.S. Navy and off-limits to residents. The Caribbean Sea is home to 700 significant islands, representing 30 different territories, so how does anyone remember a speck like Vieques? Well, Vieques is an exceptionally beautiful spot, even considering that Puerto Rico is chock full of other beautiful spots. This is a land of palm trees, white-sand beaches, and laidback seaside towns. Only 8,000 people live on the island, making the whole municipality feel like one close-knit village. 

The atmosphere here also has a touch of magic, thanks to wandering horses on the land and the glowing waters that surround it. The people are proud of their island and there are many easy ways for a tourist to enjoy these natural wonders. This place draws a wide range of visitors, from water sports enthusiasts to backpackers in search of an escape. Many also recognize Vieques as a longtime hotspot for LGBTQ+ travelers.

Vieques does have a dramatic history. Indigenous peoples likely lived here for 1,500 years, and when the Spanish arrived, they enslaved local people and forced them to toil in the sugarcane fields. Centuries later, the U.S. Navy purchased about 60% of the island for military purposes. These parts of Vieques were used for artillery exercises — in other words, target practice — and it's estimated that 300,000 individual munitions struck the island over that time. Residents protested against the bombardment for years until the Navy finally withdrew in 2003. Much of the ordinance has been cleaned up, so you shouldn't have to worry, though parts of the island will remain contaminated until at least 2032.

This peculiar history hasn't prevented the natural environment from flourishing on Vieques. Some 185 bird species have been spotted on the island, along with whales and manatees in the water. For the environment alone, you could easily add Vieques to a list of Caribbean destinations everyone should visit at least once.

But the real stars of the island are the wild horses, which roam the sandy stretches and may number as many as 1,000. The horses arrived with Spanish colonists in the 16th century, and fluctuating (human) populations in the mid-20th century allowed these animals to run loose. Like many of the top U.S. destinations to spot wild horses, Vieques' limited land area makes them relatively easy to track down. For safety's sake, do not attempt to touch or ride them. It's better to take a picture from afar. But if you're just dying to ride a horse here, you're in luck: Several local stables host equestrian tours.

As if beachcombing mustangs weren't enough, adventurous visitors will marvel at the bioluminescent algae that sparkle in the shallow Caribbean waters. These microorganisms, known as "dinoflagellates," glow electric blue on dark nights, especially when they are moved by waves or submerged human hands. Local depths contain as many as 2 million individual algae cells per gallon of water. Mosquito Bay actually holds the record for the brightest dinoflagellates in any body of water. No wonder it's considered one of the most beautiful destinations in the world to experience bioluminescence.

Bio Bay Tours are extremely popular here, especially during a new moon when the gleam is most visible. The best way to explore is by kayak, where each paddle stroke will stir up sapphire ripples, and a clear-bottomed craft will enable you to look directly beneath the hull. The one downside to Vieques is that hotels tend to skew pretty expensive, between $150 and $300 per night. If you're feeling adventurous, there are a couple of campgrounds, as well as a handful of hostels. While you're planning your excursion, here are 15 travel hacks when visiting Puerto Rico, which could easily apply to Vieques.