The Underrated Mountainous Mexican Town Known For Being A Stunningly Psychedelic Spot
If you're looking for a unique destination that's outside of Mexico's usual tourist route, consider planning a trip to San Jose del Pacifico. Located in the Mexican state of Oaxaca, San Jose del Pacifico sits above the clouds at a high elevation of nearly 8,000 feet in the Sierra Madre del Sur Mountains. If you decide to take the scenic mountain route from popular budget-friendly beach towns like Puerto Escondido and Mazunte on your way to Oaxaca City, you'll likely pass through San Jose del Pacifico. But if you blink, you just might miss it. According to the 2020 census, the tiny village is only home to about 550 people, but it attracts travelers from all over the world.
While a little mountain town in Mexico may not seem like a probable tourist destination, it's gained notoriety as it is frequented by seekers of mind-altering experiences. Located about three hours by car from Oaxaca City, one of the top-ranked cities in the world, San Jose del Pacifico is famous for "hongos mágicos," otherwise known as "magic mushrooms."
The history of San Jose del Pacifico's mushroom scene
In Mexico, the use of magic mushrooms by indigenous people and their ancestors dates back centuries. Archaeological evidence suggests that they may have been used by pre-Columbian cultures as early as 3,000 B.C. The Mazatecs, Mixtecs, and Zapotes are just a few Indigenous groups who still utilize psilocybin, the active ingredient in magic mushrooms, in spiritual ceremonies today. The psychedelic experience is believed to increase one's powers of divination, allowing participants to connect with nature and the spirit world.
Mexico's mushroom culture gained international recognition in the late 1950s when an American man named R. Gordon Wasson (who happened to be the vice-president of J.P. Morgan) traveled to the Oaxacan mountains to meet with a notable shaman and healer named Maria Sabina. For decades, Sabina had performed a traditional Mazatec ceremony, known as the Velada, which is used to heal illness and connect with the divine. After participating in the ritual, Wasson returned home and published a groundbreaking article in "Life Magazine" which opened the eyes of the world to the transcendental experiences that can happen during a psilocybin trip. Since then, hordes of tourists have continued to flock to the region in search of their own mind-altering experiences.
However, this is not the only reason to visit San Jose del Pacifico, and this experience is not recommended for all travelers. Technically, mushrooms are illegal in Mexico, but exceptions are made when they are consumed for ceremonial purposes. According to the law, people can not be prosecuted when they take mushrooms for spiritual reasons.
Experiencing the village of San Jose del Pacifico
The jury is out on whether or not the sort of pseudo-spiritual tourism in San Jose del Pacifico is good or bad. Some feel that the tourists are appropriating a traditional Indigenous spiritual and medicinal practice as an excuse to get high. During my visit in 2021, I felt that the vibe was a bit odd. Locals were selling an exuberant number of mushroom-themed souvenirs. In fact, almost everything in the whole town was mushroom-themed from my perspective. There were a few hostels and eateries, and you could easily make a psychedelic purchase at many establishments. I saw more tourists than locals, especially new-age backpacker types who were quietly wandering around solo or clustered in small groups. There wasn't an authentic shaman in sight. That being said, I've met other travelers who claim to have enjoyed profound and life-changing experiences working with Indigenous elders in San Jose del Pacifico. For other travelers, the touristy nature of the village might be a letdown if that's not what you're after.
Aside from that, San Jose del Pacifico is a gorgeous place that is perched above the clouds and the peaceful environment serves as a nice contrast to the balmy beaches and bustling cities where most tourists spend their time. Due to the high elevation, it's quite cool year-round, with temperatures rarely climbing above 80 degrees during the warmest months. The forests surrounding the town offer some excellent hiking, and sweating out some toxins in a traditional temazcal, a type of sauna, is a wonderful and relaxing experience that can also be healing and spiritual without the help of mushrooms. It's an ideal spot to visit if you're looking for a unique trip with less crowds.