A Cosmopolitan Coastal Gem In Italy Promises Crystal Waters And Spas For Ultimate Relaxation

When it comes to Italy's iconic Tuscany region, the attention of many visitors is drawn inland to the romantic landscapes, the historical glories of Florence and Siena, or the world-renowned Leaning Tower of Pisa. All these destinations are justly famous, but don't forget that the region also has over 140 miles of coastline, stretching from the black sands of La Torba to the popular public beaches of Marina di Carrara. Roughly midway between the two is Livorno, an often overlooked coastal gem that offers crystal-clear waters and elegant spa hotels, making it a relaxing spot for a few days by the seaside. Not only that, this cosmopolitan city will also give you a little taste of Venice without the crowds.

Livorno is a port city situated around a 40-minute drive from Pisa and 90 minutes from Florence. It began hundreds of years ago as a coastal fortress and expanded to become what Visit Tuscany describes as the "ideal Italian Renaissance city" under the powerful Medici family of Florence, which held sway over the region in the 16th century. Its history as a free port has long given it a reputation as a tolerant and diverse destination, attracting literary giants such as Lord Byron, Charles Dickens, and Mary Shelley. Nowadays, people are drawn by its reputation for excellent seafood and a classy cultural scene where art lovers can marvel at the works of some important Italian painters. Let's take a look at some of the highlights of a trip to Livorno.

Perhaps Livorno's most iconic landmark is the Mascagni Terrace, a sweeping piazza overlooking the sea which is made so distinctive by its checkerboard design of over 34,000 black-and-white tiles. Named after local composer Pietro Mascagni, it is the perfect place to stroll, do a little people-watching, and take in some salty air. Nearby is also Livorno Aquarium, home to around 300 marine species including sea turtles, stingrays, jellyfish, and sharks.

North of central Livorno, close to the modern port, is the grand centerpiece of New Venice (Venezia Nuova), a good alternative to avoid crowds in the real Venice. The district was built on water by merchants as the city boomed as a commercial hub in the 17th century. While it is not quite as magnificent as the world-famous tourist trap, it is still a must-see destination in Livorno with its canals, bridges, and churches. Flanking the district are the formidable Old Fortress (Fortezza Vecchia) and New Fortress (Fortezza Nuova), which have stood guard over the city for centuries. 

Art lovers shouldn't leave New Venice before checking out Livorno City Museum, which features a permanent exhibition including the works of Pino Pascali and Piero Manzoni, while the Giovanni Fattori Town Museum houses important paintings from the 19th century Macchiaioli movement. Fans of Amedeo Modigliani will want to pay tribute at Casa Modigliani, a gallery situated in the house where the artist was born.

Livorno has a distinctive cuisine that reflects the city's multicultural seafaring heritage dating back to the 1600s, and dishes worth seeking out include Cacciucco alla Livornese, a hearty fish soup with a medley of seafood cooked in a rich tomato sauce; Cecina, savory chickpea cakes baked in a wood-fired oven; and Baccalà alla Livornese, a dish of briny salted cod offset by onions and sunny fresh tomatoes. 

One place where you can sample some authentic Livornese dishes is Cantina Senese, an unassuming restaurant popular with locals and visitors seeking out traditional Tuscan flavors. For more upmarket surroundings, La Perla Dell'Ostricaio is an elegant seafood restaurant a short way from the Mascagni Terrace and specializes in cacciucco, grilled fish, and fresh oysters. If the fruits of the sea aren't to your taste, Da Alepizza is highly recommended for affordable crispy pizzas and as a great place to try out cecina. If you're in the mood for a decent steak, head to InCarne restaurant and butcher's shop, where the cuts are prepared on-site and the walls of the cozy dining room are lined with bottles of delectable wine.

While you are in Livorno, you can treat yourself to a spot of pampering at Tuscany Wellness and Spa. Located in the gorgeous Grand Hotel Palazzo, guests can enjoy a range of treatments, including a steam bath, Finnish sauna, and massages. The spa also offers VIP packages for couples to make a romantic getaway extra special.