A Bustling Seaside Market In Spain Approved By Rick Steves Is Now A Tourist Trap
Spain is one of the world's top tourist destinations, and for good reason. After all, this is a country that seemingly has it all: gorgeous scenery, sun-kissed beaches, amazing architecture, fascinating history, and one of the world's leading cuisines. Spain also has some of the lowest prices in Western Europe and a mild Mediterranean climate that makes much of the country pleasant year-round.
However, with everything going for it, Spain has become a victim of its own success. It has grown so popular that in some places you'll spend more time fighting crowds than soaking in all the cultural glory it offers in spades. Nowhere is this truer than in Barcelona, a city so beset by overtourism that locals have begun protesting against tourists flooding its streets, even going so far as to spray them with water guns.
This unfortunate phenomenon isn't just relegated to the Catalonian capital's iconic spots such as La Rambla and Sagrada Familia Cathedral. According to some, La Boqueria — the city's most famous market and a favorite spot for travel guru Rick Steves — has turned into a tourist trap. Once a magnet for neighborhood shoppers — as well as the cutting-edge chefs who helped make Barcelona's food scene world-class — many locals have now begun to look elsewhere for their fresh produce, meat, and seafood.
A historic bazaar beset by crowds
The history of La Boqueria dates back to the 13th century when merchants set up stalls there to sell meat. Since then the site has grown into the sprawling 146,000 square foot complex it is today. If you do check out while you're in Barcelona, try to do so before 11 a.m. unless you are in the mood to fight crowds, because the place gets mobbed. The biggest culprits for overcrowding at La Boqueria are cruise ship passengers, who pour off of the boats and clog the streets around La Rambla, including the market. This massive influx of humans has also changed what they sell there. What was once a place where vendors sold local produce to local people buying ingredients to cook at home, they now cater to the daily hordes.
"Every day, thousands of people are unloaded from ships into the city center for a few hours; they don't even want to eat too much, as most of their food is consumed on board," says food writer Camila Loew in her Substack newsletter Sobremesa. "What did the market vendors and business along this cruise-ship-tourist route do?" she continues. "Find ways to give tourists what they want, of course: sangría, paella, easy, ready-made food that doesn't take them too far out of their comfort zone (there's no time for that!), just enough to say 'hey, I've seen Barcelona, I've seen Spain. Been there, done that.'
The constant crowds have also resulted in another unwanted side effect: high prices. Like what happens in any place plagued with overtourism, the locals have figured out that the tourists will pay whatever they demand, which means La Boqueria is no longer affordable for the many of the people who made it great, to begin with. Being an obvious visitor is just one of the things tourists should never do in Barcelona, needless to say.
Other places to shop in Barcelona
While overtourism may have ruined La Boqueria, the good news is that it's not the only market in town. In fact, there are 39 other markets in Barcelona where you can experience life as it was meant to be: where the clientele is 90% locals shopping for vital ingredients rather than 90% tourists grazing on snacks, buying junk trinkets, and sucking down sugary juices in plastic cups.
With its distinctive, undulating rooftop designed by Catalan architect Enric Miralles, Mercado de Santa Caterina is a great alternative with fresh produce, meats, seafood, and cheese, without the chaos (and pickpockets) found at La Boqueria. Mercat de San Antoni features 235 establishments along with an outdoor book market on Sundays, while Mercat La Concepción is famous for its flower market. Mercat de Sants sits in a spacious building with vaulted ceilings. Mercat del Ninot is considered one of the best places to eat in the city, and Mercat de Galvany, with its brick walls and stained glass windows, will have you feeling like you're shopping inside a church. It's not just at the alternative markets where you can beat the crowds. Next time you're in town, check out these underrated attractions in Barcelona.