The Mountain Town In Italy Where Stunning Peaks Surround A Storybook Village
One of the most fascinating aspects of touring the mountainous northern reaches of Italy is the blend of cultures. Across the South Tyrol is a string of Italian towns that might make you think you're in Germany or Austria, with its alpine vibe and schnitzel competing for menu space with pasta and pizza. The autonomous region hugging the border between the two nations became part of Italy in 1919, and its largely German-speaking locals have preserved their Austrian roots while also absorbing influences from the new country. One of the most scenic places where you can experience this phenomenon is Brixen, a storybook town in the heart of the Dolomites.
Located in the picturesque Eisack Valley less than 30 miles from the Austrian border, Brixen (Bressanone in Italian) is the oldest town in the province, dating back over 1,100 years. Its long Germanic history is reflected in the architecture while cultural giants from both countries are commemorated on the map — Mozart, Verdi, Dante, and Goethe all have streets named in their honor. Both languages are present on street signs and storefronts as you wander the cobbled historic center, and hearty Tyrolean cuisine in restaurants gives way to Italian coffee culture on the squares and terraces. With its laid-back atmosphere, Brixen is a gorgeous spot for a short break while touring the South Tyrol. Within easy reach of the surrounding peaks, it also makes for a great jumping-off point for hiking and winter sports adventures.
Things to see and do in Brixen
South Tyrol is one of Italy's best-kept secrets and one of the most relaxing pleasures is ambling through the streets of its picturesque mountain towns. Brixen is well-equipped in that respect, and it also has a few impressive sights worth checking out while you're there. The low-rise skyline is dominated by two landmarks, both of which you can visit: The twin bell towers of the lovely baroque cathedral, and the White Tower of St. Michael Parish Church. The latter is famous for its set of 43 bells that ring out across the rooftops daily at 11 a.m., and the building also houses a small museum. It is also worth having a poke around in the opulent Bishop's Palace for an insight into the town's rich history.
Brixen's proximity to the mountains makes it a great base for exploring the Dolomites throughout the year. The cable car from the nearby village of Plose will whisk you up 2,000 meters (about 1.2 miles) for skiing and tobogganing in the winter. The surrounding area is criss-crossed with 250 miles of trails perfect for hiking and cycling in the warm seasons.
The town also hosts events throughout the year. Two of the biggest annual gatherings include the Brixen Water Light Festival, when the streets are transformed into a sparkling wonderland by spectacular art installations; and Törggelen, the traditional South Tyrolean harvest celebration. The latter is a real treat for foodies with its range of the best local produce, wine, and delicious roasted chestnuts.
Eating and drinking in Brixen
Brixen may be a small town but it has a fine culinary heritage that blends Tyrolean classics with Italian influences. There are several great restaurants to choose from, but arguably the cream of the crop is the Michelin-starred Apostelstube. The award-winning chef fuses Asian cuisine with flavors from closer to home, with the signature menu taking inspiration from an elephant's long journey from Ceylon to the Austrian court. It's not cheap at 165 euros (about $173 USD) per person, but it won't be a meal you'll forget in a hurry.
For more wallet-friendly eats that will give you a taste of both Austria and Italy, Der Traubenwirt serves up classic Tyrolean schlutzkrapfen (ravioli-style dumplings filled with spinach and ricotta), wiener schnitzel, plus a range of pizzas and pasta dishes. For similar fare in a more relaxed environment, dine on creative modern dishes while supping quality beers and cocktails at Decantei.
Those who prefer a drop of wine won't be disappointed either. Brixen's history of viticulture goes back almost 900 years and vineyards flourish on the steep hills outside the town. There are 10 local producers in the area and you can take a guided walk or participate in tasting events to sample the best of what they have to offer. Visit at the end of April for the Spring Awakening Festival, where the town celebrates the beginning of the new season and coming fine weather with music and plenty of wine.