Uncover A Troubled Past At This German Fairytale Village With Colorful Half-Timbered Houses

If you're headed to Germany, It is hard to imagine how the picturesque town of Idstein could look any more like something from a fairytale. Even in a country renowned for its magical must-see castles, forests, gorgeous historic destinations, and quaint villages full of half-timbered houses, the historic center of this small Hessian destination looks like it sprang from the pages of Brothers Grimm. Perhaps this is hardly surprising, as the brothers were born not far away in the similarly picturesque Hanau. The siblings were folklorists who gathered tales of hungry wolves, sleeping princesses, and quite a few wicked witches. Idstein has a dark connection with real-life witches, or, at least, some poor souls who were deemed to dabble in witchcraft and met a fiery end.

The grisly phenomenon of witch-hunting in Europe began in the late medieval period. The first recorded case appeared in Switzerland in 1428, where over 350 people were tried and executed in Valais. The grim litany continued all the way up to the tragic story of Barbara Zdunk, the last person officially condemned and burned as a witch in Poland in 1811. The notorious "Malleus Maleficarum" ("Hammer of Witches") became the popular field guide for combating witchcraft, and the deadly spree claimed the lives of up to 60,000 people. Germany was a particularly dangerous place to have accusations against you; around 40% of all witchcraft executions took place in the country. And sleepy little Idstein has its own place in this terrible tale of superstition, persecution, and murder.

Idstein's connection with witch-hunting history is most keenly felt during a visit to the Witch Tower (Hexenturm). Such structures are not unique to Idstein as many German towns have similar towers, often forming part of medieval defensive walls and sometimes doubling as dungeons back in the day. In the case of Möckmühl, the hexenturm acquired its nickname because a woman accused of witchcraft in 1655 was held prisoner in the tower before her trial. While it is not thought that anyone was held in Idstein's under similar circumstances, the town had its own series of trials between 1676 and 1677. As a result, 35 women and eight men were burned at the stake on the order of Count Johann of Nassau. Today, a plaque dedicated to the victims can be found at the tower, which acquired its current name in the 19th Century.

Although no actual witches were imprisoned or executed at the Witch Tower, it still makes for an atmospheric highlight of a visit to Idstein. Depending on the time of year you visit, the tower may be either left open for visitors or you might need to pick up the key from the tourist information office. In the latter case, you will receive a chunky medieval-looking key and a request to lock yourself inside while you explore. The interior is pretty sparse and spooky and a climb to the top of the tower is rewarded with lovely views across the rooftops of Idstein.

Idstein is a great day out on a trip to Germany, and your first port of call will most likely be the Old Town (Altstadt) and the historic market square on König-Adolf-Platz. Wandering around the streets here will be heaven for lovers of half-timbered buildings, with some of the most notable including the three-storey Killingerhaus, which houses the tourist information center and museum, and the delightfully off-kilter Das Schiefe Haus (The Crooked House). Nearby, you will see the Chancellery Gate, which looms over some of the quaint chocolate-box houses. The imposing gateway leads from the Old Town into the palace district, and it was here that many prisoners were held and abused in the torture chamber. Nowadays it is a more cheery place — people even get married here. Beyond the gatehouse, you will find the famous Witch Tower.

Once you have finally tired of roaming Idstein's charming streets and need a bite, there are several cafes and restaurants to choose from in the Old Town. For game dishes and classic German fare prepared with fresh seasonal ingredients, check out Idsteiner Brauhaus Alte Feuerwache. The brewery-restaurant situated in a century-old fire station produces its own excellent Idstein beer, so it would be rude not to sample a drop. If you fancy splurging on something a little more contemporary, Eulenstein Restaurant comes recommended by the Michelin Guide. Here, you will find a regularly changing menu and delicious wines served in a sleek, modern dining room. Come for the unnerving dark tourism aspect, stay for the picturesque scenery and delicious food.