Southern Thailand's Best Kept Secret Offers Perfect Sunrises And Seafood Feasts

While travelers pack into Chiang Mai for the November Lantern Festival and escape the cold at luxurious beach resorts in Phuket and Ko Samui, many of the best places to visit in Thailand remain undiscovered, uncrowded, and affordable. Situated in Thailand's deep south, Phatthalung is often overlooked in favor of its flashy neighbors. However, this land-locked province represents the untouched Thailand that many look for but few find.

Rice fields and low-lying jungle form a sea of green interrupted by jagged limestone rock formations, tiny towns, and enough restaurants to keep you full for life. Families of four squeeze onto one motorbike and local night markets beckon with seasonal fruits, fresh seafood, eco-friendly goods, and spicy southern curries. It's the kind of place where only taxi drivers are in a rush and afternoons stretch long and lazy.

Although off the beaten path, Phatthalung can be combined with a visit to family-friendly Ko Lanta, Krabi, or a tropical island paradise with stunning white beaches and coral reefs. In addition, if you're in Southern Thailand for at least 10 days, Phatthalung can act as a midway point between Trang and Ko Samui — make sure you visit this stunning island before "The White Lotus" brings larger crowds and prices. 

Phatthalung's main attraction is Thale Noi, a vast wetland filled with red lotus blooms, lumbering water buffalo, and over 280 species of birds. The best time to visit is between May and March when over 43,000 migratory birds arrive, the temperatures are cooler, and the lotuses plentiful. Tourist boats depart from the official Thale Noi Non-Hunting Area meeting point as early as 5 a.m., so you can witness the lotuses before they close and watch the fishermen check traditional suspended nets called "yok yor." The water turns a deep pink that matches the lotuses as the sun rises.

After your boating adventure, stop by Ren Ta On studio to learn about natural dyes, and shop at Varni Handicraft for bags made from "krajood," a type of marsh plant that looks like smooth, dried grass. In addition, this handicraft shop offers one of the comfiest homestays in the area.

As any longer-term Thai resident knows, traveling is all about the food, and a trip to Phatthalung is no different. For as much seafood as you can eat, head to a mu kratha restaurant — think of it as a cross between Korean barbeque and Chinese hotpot. Grill fresh prawns, crab, whole fish, clams, and more at Pung Phin Buffet (ร้านพุงปลิ้นบุฟเฟ่ต์&หมูกระทะ ทะเลเผา, to be exact). However, for elevated Southern Thai dishes in a stylish lakefront setting, head to Kiang Talay Terrace. Don't miss the specialty — stir-fried lotus flower stems with house-made fish paste. 

Getting to Phatthalung takes a bit more effort than reaching Phuket or Bangkok, but it's worth the effort. After flying into Suvarnabhumi Bangkok (BKK), take a taxi to Don Mueang International Airport (DMK), the older airport in Bangkok with more domestic flights. Next, fly 1.5 hours from DMK to Trang International Airport (TST) on a domestic carrier such as Nok Air, Thai AirAsia, or Thai Lion. Once you land, take a 45-minute taxi ride to your hotel in Phatthalung or rent a car. Alternatively, you can take the public bus to Trang city center and then get another bus to Phatthalung, but this takes a long time and won't drop you at your hotel.

In terms of accommodation, there are numerous laid-back homestays and luxury boutique resorts. BaanPakpra Villa offers private pool villas and thatch-roofed bungalows overlooking Thale Noi, with rates starting from $45. For a luxury resort tucked away down a serene inlet, choose Canal Village. However, Wetland Camp is a great option for romantic, stilted huts with panoramic sunrise views from bed.

If you come on Saturday, visit Pa Phai Sang Suk Market, which hosts over 200 vendors with goods ranging from local honey to textiles to generous portions of Southern food served on lotus leaves. For a flavor experience that will stick with you, try dishes made with ka pi blaa, a pungent fermented fish paste that adds a punch of umami to many local dishes.