Located Atop Florence Is A Romanesque Church Offering Serene Panoramic Views Of The City
Quick: Think of the phrase "Florence, Italy." What do you imagine? Is it a church with a gigantic red dome? That's what most people think of. Perhaps you already know its nickname is "Brunelleschi's Dome," after its daring Renaissance architect, or that its real name is the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore. If you took any art history class, this famous church likely came up; it's still the largest masonry vault dome in the world, nearly six centuries after it was first completed. The elegant arches and bold color have become the de facto image of Florence ever since, and if you picture only one thing about this storied Italian city, "Il Duomo" is probably it.
But Florence has plenty of other sacred sites, including the wondrous San Miniato al Monte, a basilica church that stands atop of a cypress-studded hill. With its pearly Romanesque façade and minimalist aesthetic, San Miniato al Monte has punctuated the Florentine skyline since the Middle Ages. The church stands across the Arno River, about 1.5 miles away from Santa Maria del Fiore, or 40 minutes on foot. If you're still putting together your itinerary for Florence, San Miniato al Monte is a stirring addition to the city's many must-visit spots.
1,700 years of Florentine history under one roof
To really appreciate San Miniato al Monte, it's helpful to know its dramatic origin story. The church is named after St. Miniato (or Miniatus, in Latin), who is often described as "Florence's first martyr." His exact origins and identity are unknown, but Miniato was a dedicated Christian in the 3rd century, when the Roman emperor Decius was particularly cruel to followers of the faith. Miniato refused to participate in Roman spiritual practices, so the authorities attempted to torture him. According to legend, Miniato was pushed into an oven, but instead of being burned alive — as expected — the future saint was miraculously untouched by the fire. When the Romans finally beheaded him, Miniato is said to have stood up, picked up his own head, and walked to a nearby hill, Mons Florentinus, where he finally expired.
In the early 1000s, the Florentine bishop decided to honor St. Miniato with a new church, on the very spot where the decapitated martyr was said to have finally died. After at least 30 years of construction efforts, the project was completed around 1062. (If that time period feels a little hazy, it was four years before the Battle of Hastings, when the Normans invaded England). The steep steps leading to its entrance were so well known that Dante Alighieri actually described them in his lyrical masterpiece "The Divine Comedy." Given how far back San Miniato al Monte's story actually goes, you could add the church to a list of the best Italian sites for ancient history lovers.
San Miniato al Monte: A church and art gallery in one
Florence is a grand buffet for fans of art and architecture, and San Miniato al Monte alone is a feast for the eyes. The church is a classic basilica, with a rectangular floor plan — instead of a cross-shaped cathedral like Notre Dame — and a semicircular apse for an altar. Pillars line each side, along with round windows and several walls covered in mosaics. Carvings of angels are affixed to the curved ceilings, and some artwork depicts the animals of the zodiac. Waves of artists have added to the church's simple interior, some of them hired by the famous Medici family, and whole art movements are represented on its walls. An adjacent chapel was built in honor of the Cardinal of Portugal, who was interred there in 1459.
San Miniato al Monte is a little off the beaten track; a walk up the hill may leave you huffing, but the view of Florence from the church's broad terrace is unmatched — including, yes, Brunelleschi's Dome. You could take a cab, or better still, you could zip up here on a Vespa. The church is open all week, with breaks in the middle of each day. Unlike more popular attractions in Florence, you probably won't have to wait in line to get inside. The real miracle? Admission is free.