One Of Italy's Most Liveable Towns Is An Idyllic Mountain Retreat With Hikes And Medieval Alleys

Few places feel more like a storybook than the Tyrol. Split between the modern nations of Austria and Italy, this ancient region is famous for its snow-capped mountains, fertile valleys, and quaint villages. The classic Tyrolean hat looks like a little felt fedora with a feather in it, and Tyrolean women wore colorful dirndls for centuries. Accordions are the whimsical staple of Tyrolean folk music, and polka remains a prominent festival dance. Whether you imagine a Saint Bernard with a barrel under its neck or farmers in lederhosen herding cows, the Tyrol conjures the most enchanting images.

Right in the middle of this land stands Brunico, a beautiful little town of 13,000 people. Its history dates back to the Roman Empire and its skyline is set against spectacular Dolomite peaks. More importantly, Brunico — also known as Bruneck among German-speakers — was named the "most livable place in Italy" in 2009, and it remains a popular destination for travelers in search of the Tyrol's cultural heart. Like many places in this mountainous territory, Brunico takes some time and effort to reach, but you could easily add it to a list of the most adorable small towns in Europe.

Brunico is nestled in the Puster Valley, and it was long famous for its textile industry. The old town has a medieval feel to it, with tightly packed residences along meandering cobbled streets, plus a handful of eye-catching churches. The most striking of these is the 14th-century Chiesa di Santa Caterina, whose bell tower boasts a double-bulb spire and a beautiful clock. The town is effortlessly walkable, with a wealth of shops and bistros tucked into different facades. The Rienza River flows through and you can admire its rocks and riffles from adjacent streets. Indeed, a 21-mile bicycle path follows this river into the countryside, through tunnels and meadows and neighboring villages. 

One of the main draws to the Tyrol is its outdoor scene, which can be enjoyed in Brunico year-round. The adjacent Dolomites are among the most admired mountains in the world, and visitors could spend weeks exploring nearby hiking trails. Before you head out, here's some advice from Rick Steves for hiking in Europe. A winter stay in Brunico puts you within easy access of world-class downhill skiing, and rock climbers can hone their skills in the Heliks Indoor Climbing Center in any season, thanks to its 36 different routes.

Looming above the town is Castle Brunico, which was built in 1250 at the behest of Bruno von Kirchberg. The castle was a kind of summer getaway for Bruno, an aristocrat and clergyman who was known at the time as a "Prince Bishop." This fortress is just one of 42 surviving castles still scattered across the Puster Valley, owing to its strategic importance during the Middle Ages. Today, the castle has been repurposed as the Messner Mountain Museum (MMM Ripa), which houses interactive exhibits on the theme of alpine living. The museum takes its name from Reinhold Messner — a Tyrolean native and one of the most respected living mountaineers — as well as "ri" and "pa," the Tibetan words for "mountain man."

The closest major airports to Brunico are in Venice (about three hours away by car) and Innsbruck, Austria (just short of two hours away). Brunico is ideal for middle-class travel, but it's less of a bargain for backpackers on a budget; assume you'll spend at least the equivalent of $100 per night for a hotel room. While you're in the area, here are some other destinations to consider in the Italian Dolomites.