A Clifftop Town Has Transformed From A Pirate Port To A Scenic Star Of The English Coast
East Sussex has been a prime location along the U.K.'s south coast since William the Conqueror first rocked up at Pevensey in 1066. Home to charming seaside towns like Eastbourne, Brighton, and Bexhill-on-Sea, it is famed as one of the sunniest counties in the nation –- a fact not to be sniffed at considering the temperamental British weather. It has long been a place for a relaxing break, and in more recent years the region has inspired the likes of Virginia Woolf, Alfred Tennyson, and Sir Arthur Conan Doyle, who chose East Dean as the perfect retirement home for Sherlock Holmes. Just 5 miles along the coast from where the great detective kept his bees is Seaford, a former major port with a historic reputation for piracy that is now renowned as the perfect spot for a weekend getaway.
Situated a two-hour drive from central London and half an hour from Brighton, Seaford was a prosperous port in the Middle Ages before a combination of the harbor silting up, the Black Death, and pirate raids all sent the town into decline. In the 16th century, local residents developed an unsavory reputation themselves as wreckers and looters preying on ships that ran into trouble in the bay. Nowadays, it is all rather more genteel in Seaford, which has become a popular destination for ramblers, golfers, and beachcombers. Let's take a look at some of the highlights.
Things to see and do in Seaford
The undoubted star attraction of a trip to Seaford is the nearby Seven Sisters chalk cliffs, one of the most spectacular Harry Potter filming locations you can visit in real life. Much like the White Cliffs of Dover, this stunning stretch of the South Downs coast gives England the formidable appearance of a vast fortress rising out of the sea. The result of coastal erosion, the gleaming white peaks run from the Cuckmere River just outside Seaford to Beachy Head. Whether you choose to stroll along the beach or take the South Downs Way along the clifftops, it is a bracing walk of incredible natural beauty. Another good spot for a walk is Tide Mills between the town and nearby Newhaven, where you can find the ruins of an abandoned village and an important habitat for birdlife.
In Seaford itself, the long stretch of shingle beach is known for its rows of brightly painted beach huts and excellent water quality, should you be brave enough to take a dip. Summer sea temperatures rarely rise above 70 degrees, making for an invigorating swim. The regular windy conditions also make it a popular spot for kite surfing. To find out a little more about the town you can visit Seaford Museum. Unusually, it is housed in a Martello Tower, one of over 100 circular forts built along the south and east coast of England during the Napoleonic War.
Eating and drinking in Seaford
No trip to the seaside in the U.K. would be complete without fish and chips and an ice cream. Seaford has several places where you can enjoy Britain's traditional national dish, and one of the best-rated (4.5 on Tripadvisor) is R&B Fish Bar. It's a proper chippy just a short walk from the seafront where you can pick up all the usual favorites such as battered cod, haddock, and plaice with old-school sides of mushy peas and pickled eggs. For an ice cream cone, head to the Holy Cow! Beach Shack in the summer months for a range of flavors.
If you are in the mood for some traditional pub grub, The Old Plough Inn has a menu full of the usual suspects like bangers and mash and Hunter's chicken, not to mention roast dinners on Sundays. For slightly more modern fare, book a table at the Cuckmere Inn just outside town. It's a lovely rambling pub with a summer terrace where you can enjoy views of the river estuary while tucking into honey and truffle baked camembert, delicious chargrilled skewers, stone-baked pizzas, or slow-cooked pork belly. For a bit more of a splurge, Ollivers Restaurant is one of the most highly-rated spots in town. Renowned for its superb service and relaxing atmosphere, the three-course meal offers a range of quality British home-cooked cuisine. After all that food, you might just need another stroll across the Seven Sisters to walk it off.