Africa's 'Windy City' Is An Underrated Artsy Coastal Escape For Digital Nomads And Wind Surfers

Perched on the shores of the Atlantic Ocean in western Morocco awaits an enchanting port city called Essaouira. With a rich history, vibrant markets, and the softest sand beaches, it's one of Morocco's best hidden gems. While Essaouira is often overlooked by tourists who flock to the larger cities of Marrakesh and Casablanca, it's gaining popularity as a home base for digital nomads, and it's been on the radar of watersport enthusiasts for years. Essaouira is known as the "Windy City of Africa" due to the breeze that blows in from the ocean making it an incredible destination for surfing — especially windsurfing. It was used as the filming location for the city of Astapor in "Game of Thrones" and makes an appearance in the Netflix film "Lonely Planet." 

Morocco is an excellent country for African history buffs, and the old walled part of the Essaouira is a bustling medina with winding cobbled streets full of colorful souks selling fragrant spices and artisan goods that is comparable to the medina of Marrakesh, but much less chaotic. The ancient walls of the city offer sweeping views of the ocean, and the soft desert sand beaches are the perfect place to kick back and relax. If you're looking for the perfect laid back beachy vibes with a dose of authentic North African and Islamic culture, add Essaouira to your bucket list.

Essaouira has a long and complicated history. The area has been inhabited since at least the 5th century BCE and was originally called Mogodar. Over the centuries, control of the region has passed through different hands and it played an important role in global trade. In the mid-1700s, a French architect helped the local government redesign and build the fortified city, and it quickly grew to become one of the most prosperous ports in Morocco. The historic city center, or medina, is a remarkably well preserved fortress constructed in the 18th century with both European and North African design elements. It was established as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2001.

Today, Essaouira is gaining popularity amongst travelers, and attracts hundreds of thousands of visitors each year. It's easily reached by rental car, shuttle, or bus from Marrakech and the drive takes about three hours. There are also direct flights departing from European cities like Paris, London, and Brussels. When I visited in November 2024, I flew from Paris on a three hour non-stop flight that cost about $100, and then hired a private driver to Marrakech for about $80.

Morocco is a great budget-friendly destinations in Africa. The affordable prices, laid back vibes, and reliable wifi have put Essaouira on the map for digital nomads. You'll find various hip cafes, like the female-owned Sisterhood, that are perfect for remote work. A cool coworking spot called Noqta Space has two floors that includes private offices and open work areas that you can use for around $5 per day. The rate includes coffee, tea, and filtered water while you work.

Essaouira is the kind of place that will make you want to cancel your travel plans and stay awhile, and it feels like a breath of fresh air compared to the chaos of Marrakesh. The medina is a colorful maze full of artisans selling things like leather goods, hand carved wooden furniture, textiles, and jewelry where you can shop until you drop. The air is scented from booths stocked herbs, spices, soaps, incense, and locally produced Argan oil. Explore the historic city walls of the old fortress for amazing views of both the city and the ocean.

I loved walking barefoot along the expansive sandy beach, and watching dozens of windsurfers test their skills. You'll find plenty of locals offering camel rides to tourists, and some funky surf shops offering lessons and rentals. Stop for lunch at Ocean Vagabond which has a gorgeous patio, ocean views, cocktails, shade trees, and a chic international clientele.

There are plenty of great day trips you can book around the city like four-wheeling through sand dunes, exploring Berber villages, and scenic drives through the Atlas Mountains. Make sure to enjoy a traditional Moroccan spa experience at one of the local hammams. Cleansing is an important spiritual and cultural practice in Morocco, and hammams are visited by both locals and tourists. Public options are very affordable and locals come to the steam rooms prepared with their own soaps and ready to socialize. Some hammams also offer a service that includes getting scrubbed down with traditional black soap and doused with buckets of water. Following the cleansing, you'll usually receive a nice massage.

There are incredible places to stay throughout Essaouira, and options to fit every budget. I opted for a private room with a shared bathroom at the Chill Art Hostel located in the heart of the medina that cost about $25 per night. My room featured a lofted bed with a spiral staircase. Common spaces were decked out with Moroccan decor, the staff was helpful, and a light breakfast was included each morning. With a budget of about $100 you can find a room in a gorgeous traditional Riad. Larger hotels with ocean views can be found outside of the medina.

There are plenty of spots to grab a drink and enjoy nightlife, but alcohol should not be consumed in public as Morocco is an Islamic nation. Taros, a restaurant located near the entrance to the Medina, has multiple levels of terraces that are perfect for taking in the beautiful sunsets while sipping on a glass of wine. After the sun sets, you can catch live music performed on an elevated stage above a jam-packed dance floor. We loved dancing the night away to the sounds of traditional North African instruments and vocals followed by an impressive DJ set. Taros also has a delicious and beautifully decorated restaurant with an ever-changing menu that's perfect for foodies.

Another stand-out restaurant called Umia provided my favorite dining experience in Morocco. The intimate eatery is located on a cobbled street in the medina and has about 10 tables. It's elegantly decorated with neutral colors, natural textiles, flickering candles, and Moroccan pottery. We enjoyed mouthwatering menu items like carrot soup with caraway and scallops, freshly baked bread, roasted cauliflower in a goat cheese sauce, crispy chicken, perfectly cooked eggplant, Moroccan wine, and locally made pistachio ice cream.