Bonaire's Capital Is An Underrated Caribbean Town Offering More Than Just Stunning Coral Reefs

Bonaire is a humble island, and if you don't know the Caribbean well, it's one of the easiest to overlook. This land mass is only 24 miles long and — at its largest part — only seven miles wide. Brandaris, a cactus-speckled mountain, rises to a respectable height of 784 feet above sea level, but most of the island is fairly flat. Bonaire is one of the "ABC Islands," also known as the Leeward Antilles; but Aruba (the "A") is far more popular among tourists, and Curaçao, which is well known for budget-friendly outdoor adventures, has a population eight times larger than Bonaire's.

Yet Bonaire is full of surprises, and nearly half a million cruise ship passengers discover this little Dutch municipality each year. The island boasts 22 distinct beaches, and its robust coral reef is considered one of the healthiest in the Caribbean. The most unexpected pleasure is Kralendijk, Bonaire's quaint capital of 10,600 permanent residents. Kralendijk feels like a laidback small town that thrives on tourism and is known as a diving capital; its name basically translates as a "sea wall made of coral." Yet the town has plenty of dining and entertainment, along with top-notch hotels and hikeable desert environs.

The first thing you notice about Kralendijk is the color: Many of the facades are painted in bright hues, reflecting the pastel palettes of Dutch communities like Houten and Reitdiephaven. Even the colonial stronghold of Fort Orange is an attractive shade of, yes, orange, with simple walls and a single adorable tower. Every building in Kralendijk is three stories or shorter, and traffic is slow-moving — the maximum speed limit in town is 25 miles per hour — so you can walk these streets with confidence. Right on the western shore is Plaza Wilhelmina, a popular public park with benches and a gazebo, and the waterfront is crowded with marinas and docked watercraft.

Like the other ABC Islands, Bonaire is ethnically diverse with a polyglot street culture; you may hear Dutch, Spanish, and the local language of Papiamentu in the span of a few blocks or dining room tables. International visitors enrich this melting pot even more. You may actually consider downloading a translator app; assuming everyone speaks English is one of the mistakes many people make while visiting the Caribbean.

The streets of Kralendijk are lined with gift shops and restaurants, and chefs serve a wide range of dishes, from seafood to Venezuelan cuisine to classic pub fare. You can find a nice selection of jewelry, paintings, and crafts by local artists, and some favorite souvenirs include evaporated sea salt and aloe products, which are processed from local plants. As for cocktails, try the famous liqueurs from Bonaire's Cadushy Distillery.

Bonaire may be small, but there is a lot to see, and getting around the island takes some effort. Taxis aren't easy to find, and ride-share programs don't exist here. You can rent a car, of course, or you could rent a bicycle or motor scooter, which are popular conveyances among locals. This being a sunny Dutch island, a network of bike trails crisscrosses Bonaire, so sporty cyclists with durable tires can get just about anywhere within an hour or two. You can also take the many bridle paths by horse, thanks to Horse Ranch Bonaire. 

The terrain is remarkably arid, more like Arizona than the Amazon, and hikers will find wide-open views from the island's handful of hills. While the dry terrain often surprises first-timers, you'll be relieved to know that Bonaire is basically immune to hurricanes.

The most beloved activity is diving and snorkeling, and hordes of people come here just for the close-ups of marine wildlife. There are many dive sites all around the island, and each uniquely showcases reefs, wrecks, and sea turtles. A favorite spot is Klein Bonaire, a satellite island located half a mile across the water from Kralendijk. Scuba divers will love it here, and the crystal shallows are ripe for snorkelers as well. You could easily add Bonaire to a list of the best diving destinations in the world.