Head Out On This Gorgeous And Less-Traveled Grand Canyon Trail For Serenity And Solitude

Are you old enough to remember B-sides? When a band released a single on vinyl, there was always a second, usually lesser song printed on the other side, but sometimes those secondary numbers turned out to be just as worthy. The B-side for the Beatles' "Hey, Jude" was a little number titled "Revolution." Can you imagine the Beatles' catalog without that swingy, swelling anthem? That's exactly how you should think of the Grand Canyon's Tonto Trail, because this B-side trail is every bit as spectacular as the canyon's well-worn greatest hits, and offers something you won't find without venturing off the main drag: blissful solitude in which to commune with one of the world's greatest natural wonders.

When dayhikers and backpackers head into the Grand Canyon, they usually flock to a couple of famously well-traveled routes. Bright Angel Trail and South Kaibab Trail form a V-shaped triangle, meeting a vertical mile down, at the Colorado River, where a footbridge takes you across to Bright Angel Campground and the cabins and small canteen at Phantom Ranch. From there, the North Kaibab Trail goes to the North Rim, for hikers seeking a difficult "rim to rim" Grand Canyon experience. These three trails form what's called the "corridor" and see heavy day use, especially with the canyon's increasing popularity as an ultrarunning destination.

The Tonto Trail doesn't travel up and down, but instead travels parallel to the Colorado River, a little more than halfway down the Canyon. It's 95 miles long in total, although most use it as a connector trail to put together creative itineraries that take you off the beaten path.

Every day, more and more hikers attempt to join the 1% of Grand Canyon visitors who hike all the way to the Colorado River. Encouraged by social media, increasing numbers of unprepared hikers foolishly try to complete the 16.6 mile hike with 4,700 feet of elevation gain in one day — something the National Parks Service desperately wishes you wouldn't do. But there's a wonderful, more doable alternative: By skipping the river, and traversing mid-canyon along the Tonto Trail instead, you'll be hiking a more modest 13.2 miles with 3,400 feet of elevation gain. In the bargain, you'll also be getting to see views of the canyon that few ever experience. 

Begin by taking the early morning park shuttle to the South Kaibab Trail. Watching the sunrise as you take the "stairs" down this steep incline is like tumbling through a red, pink, and gold kaleidoscope — it's a breathtaking, ecstatic blur. Take your time, as this hike will be one of the greatest memories you ever make.

In just over 4 miles, the South Kaibab Trail intersects with the Tonto (pictured), which you'll take west for another 4.5 miles. This rolling section of trail lets you take your eyes off your feet and feel the sheer volume of the canyon that surrounds you as you ramble along with nary a soul in sight. The vast basin of the canyon is at once humbling and welcoming, as you feel cradled by the infinite embrace of Mother Nature. Finally, you'll reach to Havasupai Gardens, where you can take a lunch break and fill your water before taking the Bright Angel trail 4.5 miles back up to the rim.

For a more thoughtful excursion with time to truly contemplate the majesty that surrounds you, complete the above route in two days instead of one. The campground at Havasupai Gardens is a civilized, green oasis with shade structures, a water spigot, and downright elegant composting outhouses. A chilly creek runs alongside the camp, perfect for soaking your tired toes, surrounded by chirping frogs and darting blue dragonflies. In the morning, you can hike the 3,000 feet up Bright Angel Trail on fresh legs, to finish well before the heat of the day. And if you book two nights at Havasupai Gardens, you can use the middle day to hike down to the Colorado River and back. Just be sure to check the National Parks Service website for possible closures, as trail work is currently ongoing.

Fair warning: The Grand Canyon is known to be addictive. For a more rugged second backpacking excursion, plan on ending your next scenic Arizona road trip with the 22.8-mile Hermit-Tonto-Bright Angel loop. The Hermit Trail (pictured) descends to the Tonto from Hermit's Rest, which is accessible by shuttle bus so you can park at either end. Most hikers recommend hiking east-to-west, as the Bright Angel Trail's broad, well-groomed surface is easier to descend, while the rocky, unkempt Hermit Trail is better to climb up, with the sun at your back. You'll be far from civilization, but the deeper you go into the canyon, the more you'll recognize it as your spiritual home. This 3-4 day trek gives you time for a quick descent to touch the Colorado River at Monument Creek. "Had the trail to ourselves for hours," one AllTrails reviewer enthuses. "A quiet trail in the Grand Canyon is a marvel."