The 'Cicchetti Heaven' Eatery In Venice, Italy That Travel Host Stanley Tucci Recommends
Italy is renowned for some of the world's best cuisine, with a dazzling array of mouth-watering delights that go well beyond the standard pizza and pasta. Each region of the country has its own specialities, from the heart-warming stuffed pasta of Emilia-Romagna to the tender lamb raised in the countryside around Rome in Lazio. Stanley Tucci, the Italian-American actor and TV personality, made it his mission to try as many dishes as he could in his foodie show "Searching for Italy." Arriving in the iconic city of Venice, the "Big Night" star indulged in cicchetti, a lesser-known treat much loved by the locals. Of all the places you can pick up the bite-sized snack in the city, Tucci highlighted two spots in particular: A family-run wine bar called All'Arco, and Osteria Ai 4 Feri Storti, a simple joint that one gondolier told Tucci was "cicchetti heaven."
Cicchetti are Venetian street food similar to Spanish tapas: Small savory bites prepared with fresh local ingredients. Since Venice is located in a saltwater lagoon on the Adriatic, seafood often plays an important role, such as sarde in saor (fried sardines marinated with onions) and polenta e schie (polenta topped with shrimp). In the show, Tucci started his day with a breakfast of open-faced sandwiches similar to Spanish Montadito or Czech chlebíčky, artfully prepared by the server and washed down with a glass of wine. Having a tipple so early in the day might seem indulgent, but don't worry if you are in Venice. You have history and tradition on your side.
Why is cicchetti so popular in Venice?
As Stanley Tucci notes in "Searching for Italy," cicchetti like Baccalà mantecato (salt cod mixed with olive oil) "is to Venice as pizza is to Naples." The tradition is said to go back centuries, to a time when wine sellers on St. Mark's Square would move their carts into the shadow of the bell tower to keep their wares cool, spawning the local expression, "a shadow of wine" to mean a glass. To avoid drinking on an empty stomach, makeshift bites became popular among Venetians. Early snacks often amounted to little more than hard-boiled eggs with anchovies or a nibble of octopus. From these beginnings sprang up the bàcari, small establishments where wine and cicchetti could be enjoyed, typically standing at the counter or outside on the street.
The humble cicchetti are as popular now as they ever were and many Venetians routinely stop off for a quick bite on the way to work or while chatting with friends. The variety has grown over the years and you can even eat Michelin-starred inspirations at Ristorante Local, where modern takes on the finger food are served as an appetizer on the 7- and 9-course tasting menus (160 and 190 euros respectively). As for Tucci's picks featured on his show, All'Arco holds a 4.5-star rating on Tripadvisor, while Osteria Ai 4 Feri Storti is ranked slightly lower, with four stars.
Other places to eat Cicchetti in Venice
The cicchetti sampled by Stanley Tucci at All'Arco looked like it should be in a display case rather than eaten: An open-faced sandwich with fresh sea cicada on a thick smear of stracciatella cheese and garnished with orange, truffles, and miso mayonnaise. Indeed, Tucci was so blown away that he suggested the food deserved a Michelin star. No wonder the bar, not far from Rialto Bridge, is such a hit with locals. While offerings change with the season, other cicchetti you might find available include succulent tidbits like tuna with cucumber, peach, and zucchini, or turkey and brie for non-seafood lovers. Tucci's other recommendation, Osteria Ai 4 Feri Storti, also has cicchetti, along with a larger menu of meals.
There are many other places to try cicchetti on your trip to Venice. Another popular option near the Rialto is Cantina Do Spade, a venerable tavern that has been around since 1488 and was once frequented by Casanova. Classic ingredients here include pumpkin, meatballs, and crab, all served with excellent wines. A little further off the beaten track is Cantine del Vino già Schiavi, another historic bacaro famous for its cured meats and creamed cod recipe. Finding the perfect cicchetti spot is a great way to sniff out local food, and it also has another benefit: In a city where dining can be expensive, these light bites are very cost effective, usually only running up to four euros each.