Rick Steves' Opinion On Cliche Gondola Rides In Venice Might Surprise You
The gondole (plural of gondola) of Venice existed long before wealthy folk packed up their steamer trunks and embarked on Grand Tours of Europe in the 17th century, dating back 600 years earlier as a practical means of navigating the canals of a city built on a lagoon. Nowadays, however, it is hard to think of anything more touristy than a gondola ride, save perhaps for kissing the Blarney Stone in Ireland or pretending to hold up the Leaning Tower of Pisa in a photo. Even cheesier still, some visitors think the perfect idea of romance is asking their gondolier to sing "O Sole Mio," a Neapolitan song popularized by a U.K. advertisement for Cornetto ice cream in the '80s. Yet for all the cliches associated with the gondola and Venice, Rick Steves is a big fan.
This may surprise you. Steves is a veteran champion of European travel and his ethos has always been to roam around on a modest budget, avoid tourist traps, and seek out local experiences as enjoyed by local people. That isn't to say he is completely against activities commonly associated with the tackier side of tourism — he recommends guided tours to get an insight into a destination's history and paying extra for centrally located hotels. When it comes to forking out for a gondola ride, Steves reckons it is worth the splurge to see the city from its best angle: from the water.
Why does Rick Steves love gondolas?
If you follow Rick Steves' writing or shows, you'll know that he is just as passionate about European history as he is about delving into a country's modern-day culture. Venice is a must-visit for history buffs and the travel writer has plenty to say about the traditions and craft behind the picture-postcard image of Venice's beloved gondole. As he notes in a video on his website, the distinctive design of a gondola stems from the practicalities of life on the lagoon: Flat-bottomed to negotiate shallow water over sand bars, steered by pilots who stood up to get a better look. Famous for their striped shirts and straw hats, Steves' video appreciates the skilful way that gondoliers navigate the narrow canals with a single oar, pushing off from walls with their feet. It's a serious profession which takes up to 18 months of intensive training, and when a gondolier passes away his license is left to the widow. The role is almost always held by men, with only one female gondliera
Steves really appreciates the skill that goes into building a gondola. Hand-crafted by artisans in Venice, each one takes around two months to construct and costs up to $55,000. To get a glimpse of gondola builders in action, order a coffee outside Osteria Al Squero — the Squero San Trovaso gondola shipyard is just across the water. You can also visit the workshop of Paolo Brandolisio, an artisan who has been sculpting the finely-carved oarlocks that give each gondola a unique look since 1983.
Other benefits of a gondola ride in Venice
Venice is such a rich and fascinating place that you could happily spend a lifetime wandering around its narrow streets, alleyways, and squares without ever setting foot on a gondola. Indeed, some hipper visitors may even sneer at the idea due to the craft's association with heavy tourism and there are many sources online that firmly recommend against forking out for a cliched boat trip. Yet from the perspective of Rick Steves, splurging on a gondola trip has benefits that make it worthwhile.
Venice is defined by water and gondole can navigate through canals that are inaccessible on foot, giving you a chance to experience parts of the city that would otherwise be off-limits to visitors. Once your gondolier takes a detour off more heavily-trafficked waterways such as the Grand Canal, the trip also has another unexpected plus. It's a great way to savor the city without having to shoulder your way through tour groups, and taking a gondola early or late in the day is a simple solution to avoiding crowds on your trip.
So Rick Steves thinks a gondola ride is worth it, but how much will one set you back? The official price stands at around $88 which rises to $110 after 7 p.m. Opinions vary about whether it is worthwhile haggling with a gondolier, although some websites suggest that you might get a cheaper price during off-peak hours. Just don't ask for "O Sole Mio."