Bologna's Oldest Market Is An Unmissable Italian Gem For Foodies
Bologna has so much to offer, including great food and art without the crowds that you'll find in better-known Italian cities like Florence or Rome. One spot that foodies should not miss when visiting Bologna is the Quadrilatero market, in the old city's medieval core. This rectangular area with a zigzag of narrow streets is adjacent to Bologna's famous twin towers, the Due Torre (the leaning one is unfortunately in danger of falling down). It's also next to the city's main square, Piazza Maggiore. Here, Bologna residents have been gathering since the Middle Ages to shop for food and socialize. While time has marched on in other parts of the city, not much has changed on these winding corridors.
Strolling through the Quadrilatero is a walk through history as well as a sensory adventure. Alongside brightly lit flower shops and pungent pescherie (fresh fish markets), perfect fruits and vegetables in every color of the rainbow are arranged in large crates, waiting to be chosen by discerning shoppers. Inside butcher shops, tantalizing hams and other cured meats dangle from the ceiling, while wheels and wedges of creamy cheeses adorn gleaming glass cases. A few shops serve plates of cheese, meat, and bread at tables that spill out onto the street. Don't be fooled by the informality of these set-ups — some of the tastiest fare in Bologna exists in these nooks.
Highlights of the Quadrilatero
The Quadrliatero as a whole is pretty fascinating, but there are a few gems in this area that you should definitely check out. One is A.F. Tamburini, a historic food shop that sells every edible miracle associated with the Emilia Romagna region and more. Here you'll find the area's finest parmesan and additional aged cheeses; a selection of mortadella, salami, prosciutto, and other cured meats fit for a king; and artisanal tortellini with scrumptious fillings. Adjacent to the shop is a small self-service restaurant that serves some hot and cold must-try Bolognese dishes.
If you're looking for a meal and prefer a wider variety of options, head to the Mercato di Mezzo, a covered market transformed into a glitzy food court. Collaborating with local food producers, Oscar Farinetti (the founder of world-famous food brand Eataly) created this space to offer the best of the region's culinary specialties under one roof. Here, you can visit food stalls that sell everything from local wines, craft beers, and Bolognese pasta dishes to seafood, pizza, desserts, and more. Go around the stands to gather up your goodies and then enjoy them with your friends at centrally located communal tables. A few sit-down restaurants are also available on the lower and upper floors if you prefer.
More Quadrilatero foodie hotspots
Another not-to-miss spot in the Quadrilatero is Gilberto, a seller of fine wines, liquors, olive oil, balsamic vinegars, candies, and other specialties for over 100 years. This is a place that exudes historic ambiance, which you can feel as you walk up the steps of the old building and enter its magical interior. Here, bottles, jars, and boxes containing every manner of delicacy cover every inch of wall space, illuminated by a sparkling chandelier. Take a trip into the cellar to see the store's most prized (and expensive) collection of fine wines, and don't leave the premises without purchasing a box of famous chocolate tortellini.
Finally, don't leave the Quadrilatero without paying homage to the Osteria del Sole. Operating since 1465, the osteria is the oldest restaurant/tavern in Bologna. It considers itself a restaurant, though it only serves wine and other drinks, not food. Instead, patrons are allowed to bring their own food (such as pizzas or sandwiches) and eat it at the communal tables. Or like many other patrons, you can just forgo food and stand around and sip wine.This is a casual and convivial place where everyone gathers — the young and the old, the professional and working classes, and anyone else from any other group. The sign on the outside of the building reads only "Wine," a succinct way to indicate that nothing fancy happens in this establishment. But whatever happens must be pretty special, since people have been coming back for more than 500 years.