Italy's Loveliest City For Travelers Who Don't Need World-Class Sites, Per Rick Steves
A city of love, easygoing Italian vibes, and adventure without the intensity of world-class sites: If you're looking for a place like this, travel guru Rick Steves suggests the one and only Verona. Located in the Veneto region of northern Italy, Verona often gets overshadowed by its more popular neighbors, Venice to the east and Milan to the west. But for travelers who prefer to savor the subtle charms of a city rather than race through a checklist of landmarks, Verona is a hidden gem that shines brightly.
Verona is best known as the setting of William Shakespeare's "Romeo and Juliet," which has certainly contributed to its reputation as one of Italy's most romantic cities. The Casa di Giulietta, or Juliet's House, is the circa-13th-century medieval palace on Via Cappello 23 that supposedly inspired the tragic story. In its intimate courtyard, you'll find the iconic balcony, a bronze statue of Juliet (legend has it if you rub or hold her right breast, you'll be lucky in love), and plenty of love notes on the walls. Enamored couples can even get married inside the house's Capuleti Hall. It is one of Verona's most visited tourist sites, so prepare for some crowds.
To go deeper down the Shakespearean rabbit hole, you'll naturally find Romeo's House about 1,000 feet away from Juliet's on Via Arche Scaligere 2. It's identified by a plaque, and you can only admire its medieval facade from the outside. You can also visit Basilica di San Zeno Maggiore, where the two got married, and Volto Barbaro, where Tybalt killed Mercutio. For the final act, Juliet's tomb, which is located in the Museum of Frescoes (once a Franciscan church of San Francesco al Corso).
What to do in Verona, Italy
However, there is much more to Verona than its association with star-crossed lovers. The city's romance permeates every cobblestone street, every ancient archway, and every charming piazza. The River Adige (Italy's second longest river), which winds through the city, adds to its enchanting atmosphere, and you can catch stunning views of it from the Ponte Pietra, a Roman arch bridge built in 100 B.C. Nearby, you'll find Ristorante Ponte Pietra, one of Italy's 20 most romantic restaurants.
Rick Steves highlights how palpable the ancient Roman influence is on present-day Verona. It used to be a resting city for Romans on their arduous journey of crossing the Alps. The greatest example of this influence is the impeccably preserved amphitheater, Arena di Verona. The third largest of its kind in Europe, this arena dates back to the first century — in its prime, it could accommodate 30,000 spectators for bullfights, gladiator contests, and theatrical performances. Today, it hosts the world-class opera festival every summer and is a must-visit site for ancient history lovers in Italy.
The city's historic center, a designated UNESCO World Heritage Site in itself, seamlessly blends the old with the new. Roman ruins, medieval buildings, and Renaissance palaces coexist in romantic harmony. Yet, Verona is also a vibrant, modern city. Its streets are lined with chic boutiques, bustling cafes, and trendy bars, where locals and visitors alike gather to soak up the city's lively atmosphere. Rick Steves recommends hanging out at the Piazza Erbe, a local square that's prime for aperitivo hour.
Local food, and exploring beyond the tourist trail
Food lovers will find plenty to savor in Verona. The city's culinary scene leans into traditions of the Veneto region, with dishes that showcase ingredients like fresh pasta, risotto, and cured meats. Be sure to try the local specialty, risotto all'Amarone, made with the region's famous red wine. Verona is also conveniently located near the Valpolicella wine region, where you can visit vineyards and sample some of Italy's finest. Rick Steves swears by enotecas (wine bars), where you can order Italian wine and small bites. Carne cruda (raw beef), mortadella with truffle, polenta with anchovies, and local cheese are his go-to's. Finish off your meal with the evening ritual la passeggiata.
Verona offers plenty of opportunities for travelers who want to explore beyond the well-trodden tourist paths. The Giardino Giusti, a Renaissance garden located just across the river from the historic center, offers a peaceful retreat with manicured hedges, ancient statues, and panoramic city views. If Mozart, Goethe, and various crowned heads paid a visit once upon a time, so should you! The city also has many beautiful churches, such as the Romanesque-style Duomo di Verona, Chiesa di Santa Anastasia (the city's largest church), and the 11th-century Chiesa di San Fermo Maggiore. Verona may not boast the world-class sites that draw millions of tourists to cities like Rome or Florence, but, as Rick Steves says, there's a romance in the air here, and that's precisely what makes it so lovable.