This Lesser-Known Region Is Home To Some Of France's Best Hill Towns, Per Rick Steves
Rick Steves, one of America's favorite travel mentors, claims France is Europe's most exciting country to explore. With world-class dining, incredible history, and elite art to enjoy, there's no shortage of reasons, but first on his list is the "romantic hill towns." There's no better place than Provence to find these villages perchés, as they're known in French. To reach them, you'll need to point your GPS away from the Côte d'Azur's famous towns of St. Tropez and the stunning hideaway beach of Anitbes and towards the Luberon, a region that's much less well-known.
There are many, many villages to explore in the region, from dramatic Gordes to undeniably Instagrammable Roussillon. However, Steves's love affair with the Luberon goes beyond the villages. On his website, Steves writes that the "sensuous landscapes" of the Luberon are "as enticing as its villages." Purple fields of blooming lavender sit alongside ancient vineyards, and the towns themselves tumble down rocky slopes. It is a scene straight out of a dream.
Steves calls the Luberon "a vacation from your vacation," as there are no standout must-visit sites. The pleasure of the Luberon is simply soaking up the views of its glorious towns. Furthermore, Provence is a magnificent European destination for people who hate crowds. Serenity can be spectacular, and that is definitely true here.
Exploring Gordes and Roussillon
While you might not have heard of the Luberon, some of its picturesque towns are already on the radar of many tourists. Gorgeous Gordes and Roussillon fall into this category, and the approach to Gordes — with its stone buildings cascading down the hillside — will take your breath away. Once inside the hill town, you can stroll its narrow cobbled streets, visit the castle perched on top of the hill, and head underground to see the medieval cellars of St. Firmin Palace.
Try to visit on a Tuesday morning when the local market is open. Aside from being very photogenic, the market is also a great place to pick up souvenirs, like lavender products, local honey, and wine. Rick Steves encourages a quick stop in Gordes but doesn't believe it's a place to linger, with little for visitors beyond its beauty and boutiques.
Luckily, there's much more to see in the wider area. A 15-minute drive east lands you in Roussillon, which Steves refers to as having "the trendy charm of Santa Fe on a hilltop." There, you'll find buildings in rich shades of ocher lining the streets that crawl up the hillside. Don't miss the views down over the colorful village from Roussillon Lookout, which one happy Google user simply calls "spectacular." if you want to explore the vibrant landscapes around the village, take a walk on The Ocher Trail, which leads through towering red rocks that may even remind you of Bryce Canyon.
More to discover in the Luberon
One of the Luberon's most photographed attractions lies just a 10-minute drive north of Gordes. The 12th-century Abbaye Notre-Dame de Sénanque is surrounded by lavender fields, allowing visitors to get that iconic Provencal snap. If you've searched the internet for "Provence," you've seen the abbey, so why not visit? The lavender blooms from late June to early August.
You'll also find a string of pretty villages a little south of Gordes and Roussillon. Oppède-le-Vieux is an ancient stone village that was abandoned for many years and brought back to life by artists who moved here during World War II. It remains a sleepy place, but the views from the ruined church and castle are lovely. Next, you'll come to Ménerbes, surrounded by vineyards and an old castle. The village has long attracted artists and writers; Picasso bought his lover a house there, and the best-selling "A Year in Provence" (a memoir by Peter Mayle) was set nearby. Further east, Bonnieux offers panoramic views, heaps of cafes and restaurants, and a lively Friday market.
Turning south, you'll come to Lourmarin, a favorite of Rick Steves among the hill towns in the Luberon. Away from the main tourist areas, Steves calls Loumarin "peaceful and happy," and says it remains lively in the winter, unlike other places in the area. You can reach the Luberon easily from Marseille, another place worth visiting despite its label as a dangerous city, and it's also an easy drive from glamorous Nice.