This California Beach Destination Is An Uncrowded Gem With Welcoming Small Town Vibes
Most of us could do with taking life a little easier sometimes, and that also goes for the way we travel. All too often, we feel the need to cram in as much as possible during a trip, grabbing a few snaps for social media before zipping off to the next destination. While that method may be good for checking off landmarks and viral holiday hotspots on your travel bucket list, it doesn't necessarily give you a chance to drink it all in. That is why the Slow Coast concept — referring to a stretch of Californian coastline between Santa Cruz and Half Moon Bay — has caught on locally since the term was first coined in 2002: The emphasis is on how much you savor the trip rather than how much you see, and one of its low-key highlights is the small beach town of Davenport.
Located less than 20 minutes along the Pacific Coast Highway from Santa Cruz, Davenport is one of those blink-and-you'll-miss-it kind of places. It was founded in 1868 as a landing post for the lumber trade, but driving through the town now, you'd be forgiven for mistaking it for a truck stop. Yet, there is more here than meets the eye — while you could easily wander around this town of fewer than 600 residents within an hour, taking the Slow Coast approach will yield a warm welcome and charming things to see and do.
Things to do in Davenport
This section of the Californian coastline is a beautifully rugged part of any West Coast Road Trip, and Davenport's chief attraction is its cliffs and beaches. Perhaps the town's one iconic image is the enormous rock jutting from the waters of Shark Fin Cove; true to its name, it looks like the dorsal of some impossibly large predator swimming just offshore. The cove itself hides a small sandy beach accessed by a rocky path.
There is more room to find a spot in the sun at Davenport Beach and Bonny Doon Beach, while Panther Beach is a secluded stretch further south popular with beachcombers and surfers. Leading out from the shore opposite the now-defunct concrete factory are the ruined pilings of Davenport Pier. Festooned with graffiti, they look positively enigmatic silhouetted against the sunset. The beaches are all within a few miles of each other, and you could spend a very pleasant day strolling from one to the next.
Elsewhere, check out the American Abalone Farm, where you can pick up shells and some live catch from the seafood market, or drop by Swanton Berry Farm to pick your own strawberries. In town, swing by the very pretty St. Vincent De Paul Church and the tiny two-cell Davenport Jail, which only held two prisoners before it was closed in 1936 and now houses a small museum. These landmarks won't rock your world, but they do fit very well into the whole Slow Coast vibe.
Places to eat and drink in Davenport
Davenport may be pretty small, but there are a few entertaining places to grab a bite while in town. The historic Davenport Roadhouse — once a general store built in 1906— was named one of the top restaurants along the Pacific Coast Highway in 2022. It's an attractive old saloon-style building with a menu covering barroom favorites like burgers, pizza, tacos, mac and cheese, plus fresh seafood. If you're traveling with a dog, there are also a few canine treats available. Regular live music and weekly dinner specials are on most days, and a few apartments are available to rent if you just can't tear yourself away.
A few doors further down the highway is Whale City Bakery, a cheerful family-run spot serving big breakfasts, tasty sandwiches, and a variety of other diner favorites. Also, check out the homemade cakes and pastries. If you're more in the mood for Mexican, step across the road to Costa Azul, another family-owned joint dishing up huevos rancheros, breakfast burritos, fajitas, and tacos alongside traditional American fare. Wherever you stop for food, you're sure to be well-fed before you head off on the next leg of your cruise along the Slow Coast.