Rick Steves Recommends London's Oldest Restaurant For A Splurge-Worthy, Luxurious Meal

London is one of the greatest cities in the world for eating, and the English capital is awash with delightfully pretty restaurants for foodie travelers. Even the cost-of-living crisis hasn't significantly hit the food scene — 253 new restaurants opened in 2023 alone. However, to borrow an old soccer adage, form is temporary but class is permanent; buzz-worthy places fade into obscurity, and even Michelin-starred eateries shut down. Meanwhile, Rick Steves' top pick for a luxurious splurge has carried on doing the same as it always has for over 200 years, making it London's oldest restaurant.

Located on Maiden Lane around the corner from Covent Garden, Rules was established by Thomas Rule in 1798 as an oyster bar that also served pies and porter beer. The menu has expanded somewhat since then, and the restaurant has built a reputation for game cooking, sourcing meat from its private estate in the Pennines. The interior is plush but far less ostentatious than the equally legendary Ritz, where afternoon tea is one of the best things to do in London at Christmas. We're talking heavy floral carpets, oil paintings and dark wood, cozy red velvet booths, and sparkling silverware. The service is formal and attentive, yet Rules is also a place that remains inviting to anyone despite its venerable status. Indeed, kids are also welcome up to 7 p.m., and the smart-casual dress code means that you don't need to break out the tux or the evening gown for your visit.

Still sitting in its original spot, a big part of the appeal of Rules is its longevity and sense of history. It has seen nine monarchs come and go, during which time the restaurant has only been in the hands of three families. It remained in the Rule family until World War I when Charles Rule swapped eateries with Thomas Bell and moved to Paris. Bell's daughter later sold Rules to current owner John Mayhew in 1984. 

A hit since day one, Rules has entertained many illustrious guests. As Rick Steves notes, King Edward VII once wined and dined socialite Lillie Langtry here, and it has hosted government officials, Hollywood stars, and literary giants over the centuries. The likes of Charles Dickens, H.G. Wells, Charlie Chaplin, Graham Greene, Laurence Oliver, and Paul Newman have all visited, among many others. Given its old-school British style, it is no surprise to learn that Rules has welcomed three James Bond actors — Roger Moore, Timothy Dalton, and Pierce Brosnan — and also made a cameo appearance in "SPECTRE" with Daniel Craig.

Poet Laureate John Betjeman made an impassioned plea to save Rules in the face of Covent Garden's redevelopment in 1971, arguing that it was an irreplaceable part of London's heritage. There has been the occasional famous dissenter, however. Around the same time Betjeman was praising the restaurant's unique ambiance, Kingsley Amis wrote a hatchet-job review called "Where Disaster Rules," describing the food as "disgusting."

The menu at Rules is about as old-school as it gets. There are no concept dining or fancy fusion inventions here, just quality British grub. Many of the dishes wouldn't look out of place on the chalkboard of a gastropub, with potted shrimp, steak and kidney pie, and sticky toffee pudding among the offerings. One downside is that vegan and vegetarian guests have little to choose from — there are no meat-free options on the main menu at all, although a separate vegetarian menu is now available.

Meat and fish eaters will be in their element, however. Oysters are available as starters in a nod to the restaurant's origins, along with sturdy classics like grilled sardines, crab salad, and smoked salmon. The main course is where you will find all the real carnivorous action, and Rick Steves recommends the game choices. Other meaty delicacies include rabbit, lamb, Gressingham duck, traditional steak & kidney pudding, and 28-day-aged beef. 

The dessert section looks like a line-up from a pre-war cookbook with nostalgic favorites like upside-down cake, fruit crumble, and golden syrup sponge. With ingredients sourced from farms around the country, the menu at Rules is British comfort food at its finest. It is relatively expensive and certainly not the place to save on food and drink in London, but you don't visit Rules for just a bite to eat. You're buying into a bonafide piece of London heritage; for many visitors, the experience justifies the bill.