Rick Steves Says This 'Floating' Hill Town In France Is A Must-Visit For Panoramic Sea Views
Cannes, Monaco, Nice, Saint-Tropez ... no place in Europe spells luxury travel more than the glimmering Côte d'Azur, or the French Riviera, one of the most beautiful coastlines in the world. Long the playground of Hollywood A-listers, royalty, and the ultra-rich, the French Riviera is synonymous with glitz and glamor, expensive yachts, flashy cars, plush hotels, and swanky restaurants that will leave a big dent in your bank balance. Yet for all the allure of sand and sea, one of the region's most beautiful sights can be found floating high above the sun-kissed coastline. Halfway between Nice and Monaco is where you will find one of Rick Steves' favorite places for lavish living and spectacular views: the medieval village of Èze.
The Côte d'Azur stretches as far as the port city of Toulon in the South of France to Menton near the Italian border and encompasses the entire Alpes-Maritime region. This is where the mountainous highlands meet the Mediterranean and provides a gorgeous backdrop for the Riviera's very well-heeled seaside towns, resorts, and beaches. Dotted around the rugged interior are many picturesque "perched villages," ancient settlements built on the natural fortifications of rocky outcrops. Some are tucked inland and away from the sea, which makes Èze's location on the coast arguably the pick of the bunch. It is appropriately nicknamed the Eagle's Nest, sitting dramatically over 1,400 feet above the sea and drawing visitors from all over the world with its promise of romance and stunning Mediterranean panoramas.
What makes Èze so special?
Èze is one of the French Riviera's star attractions, and it is easy to understand why: It provides a wonderful balance of fascinating history and sumptuous modern delights. The village has occupied its vertiginous perch since the 14th century, and its name hints at an even more ancient origin. Derived from the Egyptian Goddess Isis, it is said that a Phoenician temple once stood on the same spot.
As a fortified town, Èze was once occupied by Turkish invaders, but it is now a French jewel and one of the most photogenic vacation spots on the planet. You can feel the history as you wander the narrow cobbled lanes dotted with beautiful ivy-covered villas, terraced gardens, surprise courtyards, and rustically weathered statues. Èze has had its share of famous visitors in the past. Friedrich Nietszche spent time here in the 19th century, and his regular, steep route down to the shore bears his name: Le Chemin de Nietzsche. Walt Disney also stayed for a few months in the 1950s, and his digs are now the ravishing 5-star La Chèvre d'Or hotel and its two Michelin-starred restaurant.
As Rick Steves points out, Èze does attract a lot of visitors, which can inevitably tarnish the experience. To beat the crowds, set your alarm and arrive early in the morning or, better still, visit in the off-season. The weather is pleasant all year round, and you'll pretty much have the place to yourself.
Things to do in Èze
Èze isn't particularly rich with standalone sights because the village itself is the main attraction. One must-see landmark that Rick Steves recommends is Le Jardin Exotique, literally the highpoint of any visit. The botanical garden sits at the top of the village, and its walkways are lined with cacti and other exotic plants. The views across the terracotta rooftops and coastline are breath-taking. For more views, Rick Steves recommends stopping for refreshments at Château Eza. It's another 5-star hotel with a Michelin-starred restaurant and an incredible clifftop terrace, surely one of the most exquisite chill-out spots in the whole of Europe.
Nothing is cheap in Èze, but it is worth tapping into your vacation fund for a splurge at one of the village's boutique shops or galleries for a special souvenir, or treating yourself to a slap-up meal at one of its high-end restaurants. While there are other spots, it is hard to look beyond the aforementioned La Chèvre d'Or and Château Eza. The cheapest option at the latter is the three-course lunch menu by acclaimed executive chef Justin Schmitt at 79 Euros ($86) per head — book ahead to secure a table on the terrace. La Chèvre d'Or is even more exclusive, with an artful six-course lunch fare using only the best Mediterranean ingredients. Lunch at the opulent restaurant starts at 140 Euros ($153), but the cost is worth it for an unforgettable dining experience on one of the most stunning coasts in the world.