This Underrated University Town Is A Perfect Day Trip From Berlin, Per Rick Steves
Berlin has come a long way since its days as a divided city on the frontline of the Cold War. Today, it is a thriving multicultural metropolis with endless things to see and do — reportedly, it has more museums (175) than average rainy days per year (around 100). It is undoubtedly one of Europe's must-see destinations and a superb addition to anyone's ultimate travel bucket list. You could easily spend months or even years getting to know it, but even the most captivating cities can get a little hectic. Focusing solely on the capital on your trip to Germany does a little disservice to other places of interest nearby. One such city is Wittenberg, one of Rick Steves' top picks for a day trip from Berlin.
Wittenberg (full name Lutherstadt Wittenberg) sits on the banks of the River Elbe less than a two-hour drive from downtown Berlin. With a population of around 45,000 and a compact historic center, it is a pleasantly sedate university town, especially when compared to the hustle and bustle of the capital. Radiating outwards from its classic Central European market square, it won't take too long to wander around. However, as Steves points out (per his website), its modest appearance belies its important place in history as ground zero for the Protestant Reformation of the 16th Century. Hence, the full name — Wittenberg was the adopted hometown of the movement's most influential individual, Martin Luther.
Top sights in Wittenberg
As you might expect from its status as the cradle of the Reformation, many of Wittenberg's top sights have some connection to the game-changing religious movement of the 16th century. If you want to find out why that is a big deal in European history, the perfect place to start is the Luther Museum. It's currently exhibited at the Augusteum while the UNESCO-listed Lutherhaus undergoes renovations.
Fans of churches have two must-see sights. On the charming market square, you will see the twin spires of the Church of St. Mary, aka the Mother Church of the Reformation. It was here that Martin Luther married rebellious nun Katherina von Bora in 1525, a union considered heretical by less progressive types at the time. At the opposite end of Wittenberg's historic center is All Saints' Church, a UNESCO World Heritage site also known as the Castle Church. A climb to the top of the ornate tower provides splendid views of the town.
All Saints is home to a beautiful nave and the famous door where Luther supposedly nailed his 95 theses. Although the original was destroyed by fire in 1760, it remains an important landmark. To get an idea of what Wittenberg was like during those times, check out the marvelous Luther 1517, a spectacular 360-degree panorama designed by artist Yadegar Asisi to celebrate the 500th anniversary.
Other things to enjoy in Wittenberg
Even if you are not really interested in Martin Luther and the Reformation, Wittenberg is still a pleasant day trip destination when visiting Berlin. As Rick Steves points out, the city was given a facelift for the 500th anniversary of the Reformation and makes for a relaxing stroll enjoying the small-town atmosphere and its colorful 16th-century buildings. Fans of art and architecture should also make time for the Hundertwasserschule, a school given a typically quirky makeover by visionary Viennese artist Friedensreich Hundertwasser.
Families with kids might enjoy the Tierpark Wittenberg Zoo, one of the smallest zoos in Germany, dating back to 1928. It is situated in a peaceful park and houses an aquarium and a petting zone with friendly goats and guinea pigs. If you are traveling with little ones, the Old Town Railway is a fun way to see the sights and save their legs; kids under 3 years old go free.
For refreshments or a bite to eat, Brauhaus Wittenberg is a solid spot just off the Market Square with a historic brewery on site. It has a large outdoor seating area in a picturesque courtyard and serves German classics such as goulash soup and schnitzel with home-brewed beer. A tour of the brewery is also available. If you are all schnitzeled out on your trip to Germany, check out Bodega de la Flor for bright and colorful Mediterranean-inspired dishes or WittenBurger for delicious burgers in a hip modern setting.